![]() ![]() The front and back portions of the gasket fit right up into place. Like previously mentioned, the metal spacers built into the gasket prevent you from squeezing the gasket out. I don't have a torque wrench for the smaller range, so I just tightened them up by hand. I then removed the plastic retainers and installed the corner bolts and tightened them all up by hand. You then install the rails and side bolts and snug up each side a little at a time until it starts to mate to the block. Then you install the oil pan the same way, by just pushing it up and over the four plastic retainers. After cleaning the mating surfaces, you install the plastic retainers in the four corner locations and you slip the gasket up and over the collapsible tabs and the tabs hold the gasket in place. ![]() Anyways, I just installed a new oil pump and pan gasket, and I must say, that bugger surely is THICK ! One cool thing was that the pan gasket came with a set of plastic retainers that install in place of the four corner bolts. My engine is the roller-cam style block, but uses a flat tappet cam and lifters and was originally equipped with a TBI setup. I bought the gasket set listed for the 1993 Chevrolet G10 van donor vehicle. I'm building a 1993 5.7L to put in my '67 El Camino. If anybody knows about any front cover difference, please post up! I know the LT1 and LT4 had different front covers since the cam drove the water pump but I have yet to find anything different about the "traditional" small block front cover. I have yet to ever find any info on the front timing covers to see if any of them are different. I believe it was about 1975 when the front seal thickness was changed. The oil pans are different that the earlier small blocks with the two piece seal and from what I have read and heard, there is no different front seal thickness on these later engines. My engine is a 1986 and later style with the one piece rear main seal. Again mine seemed pretty thick but seals just fine. You may have the wrong seal, but if you bought the right part based on your motor ( I believe there are only 2 sizes) you should be fine. Thats why Fel-Pro respond to new challenges with innovative materials, new technologies and a relentless focus on designing sealing solutions. In the real-world nothing is perfect including gasket sealing surfaces. i believe the difference was about 1/8" thickness. Timing Cover Manifolds Oil Sump Cooling Back Engine Parts. For some reason I thought the later SBC used a thinner front and rear seal. I can tell you that after a track day and a few hundred miles it hasn't leaked. I actually had to buy longer bolts for the four corners. We encourage you to consult with a certified technician or mechanic if you have specific questions or concerns relating to any of the topics covered herein. Under no circumstances will we be liable for any loss or damage caused by your reliance on any content.Mine seemed too thick as well. The content contained in this article is for informational purposes only and should not be used in lieu of seeking professional advice from a certified technician or mechanic. Learn more about Fel-Pro quality gaskets that are designed specifically for the repair environment, find your car part, or find where to buy your auto part today. Green, red or yellow leaks under the car.Consult your professional mechanic for a definitive diagnosis and repair. If you notice any of the following symptoms, it could be a sign that your intake manifold gasket is wearing out. The performance of your engine depends upon the quality of the intake manifold gasket. They must be resistant to decay caused by oils and coolants. High-quality intake manifold gaskets, such as Fel-Pro®, are constructed as one-piece with reinforced edges and linings around each port or runner opening. ![]() Typically made from aluminized steel coated in a carbon-based rubber compound, the intake manifold gasket seals the intake manifold to the engine. This brings us to the intake manifold gasket. ![]()
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